A torsion spring replacement means unwinding the broken spring safely, pulling it off the shaft, and setting a matched replacement with the right wire size and wind count for your door's weight - get that wrong and the door either won't stay down or will overpower the opener. We check both springs even if only one broke, because the other one is usually close behind on the same age and duty cycle. On houses with the original 1980s or earlier hardware, we also check the center bearing and end bearing plates, since those wear at the same rate as the spring and rarely get replaced on their own. If your cables or drums show wear during the job, we'll point it out before closing things up, not after. One honest limit: if the drums are rusted seized or the shaft is bent, that's not a spring job anymore, and we'll say so rather than force a fix that won't hold. Most straightforward torsion jobs are a single visit; anything needing a non-stock part can mean a short wait.